The Edge of Civilization

Rio Branco is an interesting place. It feels a bit as if you are on the edge of Brazilian civilization. The town is a relatively industrial - it is the last stop before things go into the Amazon, and one of the first stops when they leave the Amazon and are processed for shipping elsewhere. So there are big trucks everywhere. Despite this, the average income is relatively low, and only the wealthiest can afford cars. Most residents don't own cars and they commute in any way they can. Bikes are everywhere, not simply in the city on the sidewalks, but in the outskirts of town dozens of people can be seen biking for miles on the highways to and from work. Motorcycles, which are exceptionally popular everywhere in Brazil, are almost overwhelming in Rio Branco. At least a dozen will inch past you at a red light, and when the light turns green it looks a bit like a motocross race starting.

Despite the fact that we are in the rainforest, it's been surprisingly dry since we arrived. With temperatures near 100 and the sun in full force, things dry out quickly. The soil here is predominantly red clay and sand, and when it dries out, it begins to drift. It creeps into your boots, gets in your pockets, and slips under your fingers nails. You can almost taste it in the air as everything has a bit of a reddish tinge from it. Of course this makes for some spectacular sunsets.